u3a

Bishop Auckland & District

Swaledale, a circular walk from Muker along the River Swale to Keld, returning over Kisdon Hill

Six group members set off from the village walking through the Muker meadows, a sight worth seeing in late Spring but, unfortunately, we were a couple of weeks early for the wildflowers. We crossed the River Swale with its low water levels due to the dry Spring and walked north on the Pennine Way/Coast to Coast path. We walked with the sound of House Martins, Oystercatchers and Sandpipers calling and saw banks of Bluebells and Primroses. As we gained height towards Swinner Gill we were able to turn and look behind us at the views down the valley towards Muker. We were walking at a good pace and ahead of our schedule, so we detoured from the route to visit Crackpot Hall, a derelict ruin since the 1950's, but in its day a farmhouse built on the site of a hunting lodge and the office for the local lead mining company in the 1800's. From Crackpot Hall we walked west, admiring the beautiful views, until we reached East Gill Force, our lunch spot. After lunch we proceeded to Keld to visit Rukin's Campsite Cafe for teas and coffees.

The return to Muker took us through the lovely village past typical Yorkshire stone buildings, a United Reform Church and the Literary Institute that houses the Resource and Heritage Centres. We were now walking on the road towards Angram before turning onto the Herriot Way to climb the west side of Kisdon Hill with fantastic views of the valley showing clearly  the geological and man-made scars on the hillsides. As we crossed the top we were able to see and hear Lapwing, Curlew and Skylarks, and alongside the grassy path we saw Mountain Violets. Our descent gave us fabulous views of Swaledale and took us past several field barns and into the village of Muker.

At the end of a strenuous day, we sat outside the Farmers Arms with a refreshing beer, discussing the walk, our planned walks, and places we could walk in the future.

Author - John S

Pictures - Sue F, John S,